Day 93 – April 3 MUST SURF. NOW.

We all have things that we do that helps to relieve stress.  Some people go for a walk or drive.  Some people read a book.  Others go to the gym and hit a punching bag.  For me, there is nothing like surfing.  When I’m out on the water, I’m only thinking about two things.  The first is the people around me.  Admittedly, I’m not the best surfer and the last thing I want to do is plow right into another surfer or a swimmer.  The second is the next wave.  You learn to “read” the water and understand how the waves are coming, what will be a good one to catch.  Then it’s all about paddling your heart out and hopping up on that board for a great ride.  I long for it.  It’s this time of the year that I get really antsy.  The air temperature is in the 40’s (f) and the water temperature is in the upper 30’s, pushing 40.  Just still too cold for the gear I have.  Maybe a few more weeks we’ll see the water in the low 40’s and the air up in the mid to upper 50’s.  Until then, I’m left to smell my surf wax and wait.  With everything I have had going on, I really need to surf.  Now.

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